Eggplant-alicious

How many eggplant recipes do you know? Until a couple of days ago my repertoire was limited to griddled eggplant with various accoutrement depending on the season and what I had on hand, and that old standby eggplant parmigiana.

Thanks once again to my mom and her insatiable appetite for food from the flea, (she returned from work the other day with three enormous specimen to add to some we had purchased from Kelly Farm Stand) I've got a couple more recipes to add to that list.

The best part about starting with a raw ingredient is the 'research'. I love pulling my books off the shelf, thumbing through well worn pages, writing down notes and envisioning the outcome of each recipe read. Of course the internet is also a rich source of ideas and techniques. I usually spend more time than I need to looking up recipes. Not because it's necessary, but because I get so caught up in all the possibilities.

Eggplant is such an alluring fruit. It comes in many varieties, its shape varies from slender and elongated to small and oval, and the color can be rich deep aubergine, variegated purple and white, vivid green and even red. My eggplants were fairly common. I had a two of the large, firm, oblong shaped variety as well as a few of the long, thin Japanese eggplants.

I've been doing a bit of experimentation with spices lately and so a recipe for Madras eggplant caught my eye first. Madras sauce originated in the South of India. It is made up of blend of chili, cumin, coriander, anise, cinnamon, paprika and turmeric. Some savory ingredients used are garlic, fresh ginger, lemon and chilies. The dish varies and can include some or all of these ingredients depending upon the cook. Typically it has a tomato base and can be used with meat, fish or vegetables.

I began by roasting the eggplant until it was browned but still firm. Then I set to work on the sauce. I finely diced onion, garlic and ginger and cooked them in a pot on medium with olive oil, ground chili, cumin, coriander, cinnamon and smoked paprika.

The recipe I had also listed fenugreek seeds which I had heard of but never used. I didn't have any on hand so I looked up its flavor profile and any substitution suggestions. It was described as combination of bittersweet and maple. There were suggestions to use fennel, mustard seeds or vinegar instead of fenugreek. Given that information, I put together a blend of dijon mustard, maple syrup, fennel seed and red wine vinegar and added it to the pot.

I let the alliums and ginger cook until they were translucent and imbued with the flavor of the combined spices. I added one can of crushed San Marzano tomatoes and let it all simmer. I cut the cooled eggplant into half inch cubes and drained a can of chick peas to add to the simmering sauce. I finished the dish with a handful of roughly cut cilantro and fresh grated nutmeg.

My second eggplant dish was inspired by Alice Waters. Alice listed an eggplant and tomato gratin that sounded so Chez Panisse, simple, highlighting just the ingredients. I imagined it, elegant and concise accompanying a rustic dish of grilled lamb. Just right. It was my intention to reproduce it just as it was written but part way through I thought to make a couple of subtle changes.

I diced a bit of garlic and enough onion to cover the bottom of a gratin dish and sauteed them with bay, thyme olive oil and butter. To that I added oregano. I sliced the eggplant into discs about a quarter of an inch thick and the tomato twice that thickness. When the onion was soft and sweet I spread it into the bottom of a buttered gratin dish. A sprinkling of diced kalamata olives and capers was my addition. Then I layered the tomato and eggplant, drizzled olive oil and seasoned the whole thing with salt and pepper. I baked the dish, covered in the oven at 400 for 45 minutes. I finished it uncovered for another 15 minutes and then let it cool and set before serving it.

My timid additions of oregano, kalamata and capers were a success. The finished dish felt Mediterranean and tasted earthy and brite at the same time. The original recipe is, of course, perfect as is. But, I think, Alice would approve. I hope she would.

Even today, a few days after this eggplant cooking extravaganza, I am still eating eggplant! I have enjoyed it and I'm already thinking of new and different applications for all that I learned.

Mom's Pick

My mom sells amazing jewelry and miscellany at the Wellfleet flea market all summer. Vendors at this market run a pretty broad gamut. There are t shirt and sock folks, faux Rolex watches and designer handbags, antique dealers, vinyl record and tape cassette sales persons, shoes, rugs, kitchen appliances... you get the gist.

Rather recently, there are also gardeners and farmers pawning the fruits of their labor. My mom is a sucker for a good deal and this produce is certainly a bargain. Not to mention she is a very sociable person and is inevitably lured in by the open, friendly personalities selling honest food.

A couple of days ago she came back from work with tomatoes, some summer squash, a few very ripe peaches and way too many, extremely ripe plums. She told me that the woman selling them would have thrown them out, that they were free and that she was sure I could find something to do with them. I was less than thrilled.

Task at hand... make use of plums. Furthermore, make use of peaches soon to be equally as over ripe. I reluctantly accepted the challenge and began washing off each piece of bloated, soft stone fruit. I would not have chosen to bring these pieces home. They were uninspiring and seemed to have little to offer any 'good' recipe. Maybe a fruit smoothy, but that is hardly a challenge. I decided to spend a little time looking up recipes. Maybe I'd find something that would move me.

After an hour or two plowing through my few unpacked cookbooks and scouring the web, I had a couple of ideas. I also gained a little cache of plum recipe knowledge that I know will come in handy somewhere down the road.

I decided that the seven or eight plums that were literally balls of juice wrapped in taught dark purple skin should become some sort of condiment. I peeled the skin off and then slowly simmered any and all contents until I had a 'jam'. While it was simmering, I added a bit of brown sugar, some cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg and a dash of cayenne. It took a bit of time for it to thicken, but the result was great.

Spiced Plum Jam was delicious on a cracker with a piece of aged Manchego, it was also a treat warm and drizzled over vanilla bean ice cream. I envision it working as a sweet foil for a simple grilled steak or stirred into warm rice for a subtly sweet and spiced flavor base.

In addition to the jam, I also made use of the remaining, slightly firmer peaches and plums in a simple crumble. I combined the stone fruit with frozen blueberrys that gramma and I had picked over Fourth of July weekend, then added a bit of honey, lemon zest and torn basil. I made a quick topping with flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and butter. I put the fruit into a gratin dish, mounded the topping over it and baked it until it was golden and bubbling.

Talk about satisfying... I felt like I had saved the world. Well, maybe just a few forlorn plums but, nonetheless, it was an accomplishment. Nothing went to waste, I learned quite a bit along the way and we all got to eat some pretty delicious fruit well past its prime.

The moral of this story is that moms do, sometimes, know best.

Back on Track with Summer Zuppa

Let's see... Last post June 6th. That's a long time ago. I wish I could quickly update you on all that has transpired since then, or at least list the highlights. Unfortunately, when time flys all those hours and days seem to meld together. That's not to say nothing has happened. I'm just hard pressed to come up with any really juicy details that might keep you reading past the first day or two. I will work on including some of the highlights in these new blogs.

Chris and I are making the Cape our new home. We decided that rather than recreate our SF life here in the East, we'd try something a bit different. We know we love city life, people, places etc... But, there has always been something about the Cape.

It has been an incredible Spring and early Summer. We planted our first garden, a bit haphazardly as we were rushed putting it in. There were more than a few failures but the wonders of mother nature never cease. We've had beets, some lovely radishes, salad bowls full of spicy, wild arugula and snap peas that couldn't be sweeter if we dipped them in honey. I just picked two zucchini this morning and, last but not least, we are eagerly awaiting the tomatoes.

In addition to our meager harvest, my mom's friend Tom has supplied us with treasures of his own. Yesterday he arrived with zucchini, summer squash, green beans and corn.

Today, I decided to put those veggies to work. It's hot as heck, but for some reason I was inspired to make a summer vegetable soup. My thought was to make it chunky and light on the broth. Basically a pile of delicious, farm fresh produce served at room temperature, not too hot, over a crusty chunk of good bread with a drizzle of basil pesto.

I had some chorizo in the fridge so that served to create a base along with some extra virgin olive oil, thyme, oregano, bay, fennel, onion and garlic. To that I added cubed, red potatoes and tons of diced zucchini and squash. I put my covered soup pot in the oven and let it all cook together until almost soft. Then I put it back on the stove and added some chicken stock and water to just cover the contents. In went green beans, fresh corn, a little red pepper and sweet grape tomatoes to simmer for another 15 minutes or so.

I was very hot, and very happy with the result. The soup tasted fresh. It looked like a rustic garden on a plate. I quickly made a fresh pesto from basil, spinach, garlic, olive oil and salt. I crisped a loaf of bread in the oven and tore off large pieces for the bottom of the bowl. Then I ladled the zuppa over the top and drizzled the pesto. Yum!

Last But Not Least

I really am saving up stories. I was so worried that I wouldn't have enough to write about, that I wouldn't be inspired. Turns out I've got a lot to say.

My sister Sam is twenty one, just graduated from college and very interested in organic farming. A friend of hers from school mentioned a woman that has a small organic farm in Cummaquid just a short drive up the Cape. Sam did a bit of research and learned that the woman runs a farm stand right on Route 6A so we decided to check it out.

We were hoping to meet Jean Iversen. The owner and sole operator of Kelly Farm. Jean is in her late eighties and has been running the farm and farm stand for over forty years.

We found the farm stand empty, not open for the season yet. Sam remembered an article she read giving vague directions to the actual farm. It mentioned a driveway marked by a small white sign with a number on it. We decided to try to drive around a bit in hopes that we might stumble upon it and soon we spotted the driveway and the sign. We pulled down a short dirt path and there in front of us was Jean.

I don't think either of us was prepared for this truly incredible meeting. Jean is about five feet tall and cannot possible weigh more than eighty pounds. She has chin length white hair pinned back on the side with a barrette and a fisherman's hat to block the sun. An oversized, worn sweatshirt, old jeans and work boots drape her tiny frame. Her soil stained hands are wrapped around the handle of a large garden cart with eight to ten tomato plants placed inside.

Sam and I quickly got out of the car to introduce ourselves. Jean seemed a bit confused but quickly welcomed us. She has sparkling blue eyes and a warm smile. She is open and friendly, telling us that she is on her way to deliver the plants to neighbors but has plenty of time to treat us to a brief tour of her garden.

Jean farms about an acre of land. She starts seeds in March by her wood burning stove and then plants them outdoors when the whether permits. She pointed out rows of kale, chard and collards; tomatoes, italian peppers, garlic, onions, strawberries and blueberries. All in all a grand mix of organic produce that, in the peak of the season, will supply her stand and provide many lucky customers with great eats.

Touring through the rows, Sam and I marveled at this older woman's agility and grace. Every step was deliberate and measured. She pointed out each crop and gave us small glimpses of her endless knowledge of the garden and its bounty. The job of starting, planting, weeding, watering and harvesting is intense and Sam and I cannot imagine how this tiny woman, eighty something years young can possibly do it all. We are inspired.

As we finish our tour we ask Jean if she'd like help delivering those tomato plants. It's the least we could do after interrupting her day. She agrees to a ride and the three of us set out up and down the road to drop off the plants.

Back at the farm, we said our goodbyes and backed out of the driveway as Jean began to kneel in her garden. It's early evening and there is still a lot of work to be done.

Graduation Dinner

My sister Sam's graduation from Boston College was last weekend. After a bit of research, we decided to celebrate the evening before at a restaurant called Hungry Mother in Cambridge.

Initially, I was drawn in by the website. It's unique, antique and modern at the same time. My initial search was for a neighborhood spot that cared about serving seasonal, local food. As I explored the site, I knew I was in the right place.

The space is small, intimate and inviting. The decor is simple, warm and very much in line with the look and feel of their website. We were greeted by a friendly host and seated almost immediately.

The menu is unpretentious and approachable. It reflects the chefs southern roots and the desire to highlight the best of what the season has to offer by using classic cooking techniques. We decided to try the boiled Virginia peanuts, the spicy pimiento cheese with celery and the ham and biscuits. They were great starters. Just enough salty, spicy, savory to satiate and entice at the same time. The best part was that those boiled peanuts reminded Gramma of trips to the South years ago.

We all tried different entrees. I had a couple of first course offerings as my main in order to try more than one dish. The smoked blue fish pate with crackers and bread and butter pickles was fantastic. My sister had asparagus with a perfectly cooked soft poached egg. It is my belief that if you add an egg to anything it is always better and this tried and true dish did not disappoint.

Chris had Carolina rainbow trout. It was cooked just right and served with the most beautiful, seemingly just picked vegetables. There was also delicious gnocchi with guanciale and pea tendrils. Those little tendrils are so tender and delicate, they taste sweet and just like the peas that grow from them. If you haven't tried them they are a springtime must.

All in all each plate was prepared with care and creativity. Our server was incredible, knowledgeable and passionate about both food and wine. The evening was memorable and I look forward to our next visit to this truly inspiring spot.

Sushi and Fries

Chris and I haven’t had sushi since we left San Francisco. I will admit that although I enjoy it every once in a while, I rarely crave it and almost never search it out unless I’m really hungry.

In SF we would occasionally walk two blocks up the street to Osaka to grab a bite. The appeal there was always the service. The owners also work on the floor as servers and chefs. They are kind and welcoming to everyone, especially regular patrons. I think, more than the food, we were missing our old routine a bit, missing the bustle of our neighborhood restaurant and the warm smiles that greeted us there for so many years.

Knowing that the vibe here on the Cape is much different, we set out hungry with very few expectations. We decided to go to Mac’s Seafood on Wellfleet Harbor. We knew they had sushi because we had been once before and that was reason enough to check it out again.

The evening was cool, but absolutely beautiful. We parked the car, walked up to the patio and were greeted by a smiling host. We were dressed for the weather and decided we’d be warm enough outside at the bar. I love to dine outdoors and I’m much happier at the bar. Perfect!

As we seated ourselves the bartender greeted Chris by his first name. It turns out he is a friend from high school who Chris had not seen in years, Ethan. We chatted, ordered dirty vodka martinis, looked at the menu and began to relax.

The martinis were great. Ethan was engaging and helpful. The bar was buzzing but not crowded like it can be in full summer swing. We decided on a few pieces of raw fish, a tuna roll and grilled yellow tail collar (not sushi, but one of my favorite dishes). Finally we added a side of salty, thick cut fries to fill our empty bellies.

We sat talking with each other, taken care of by a familiar face, eating our sushi and French fries on Cape Cod. The air smelled of salt, sand and spring flowers. The music was classic rock that transported us back to being twenty-one and free. The food hit the spot.

Leaving the comfort of our well-established lives in California was a big decision. As we move forward here on the East coast, we know there will be times when we long for aspects of that life. It was so nice to discover that even at those times we might be able to slip into a new, but familiar, routine here that is just as satisfying.

If you haven’t had sushi and fries… I recommend it.

Saving up Stories

Well, if you have been reading this blog since its inception you know that Cape Cod is the best way for me to loose track of time and space. I'm sorry for the lack of communication.

We've been at the cottage on and off since last Friday when we drove up to leave our trusty pooch in the capable hands of Chris's mom, Pam. We dropped the dog and then were off to Boston for the weekend to celebrate my sister Samantha's graduation from Boston College.

Since then we've been back to the Cape to grab the dog, back to Boston for a job interview and then back to the Cape again. Along the way I got to meet with old friends, eat some pretty yummy meals and explore new avenues of the local food community here in my back yard.

I think I've got a couple of good stories. They involve delicious sushi and fries on the water in Wellfleet. An amazing dinner at a neighborhood spot in Cambridge called Hungry Mother and, most recently, a visit to the farm of an awe inspiring eighty-seven year old woman who runs an organic farm stand here on the Cape.

Due to the lack of internet access at the house I will have to relate these stories a bit piecemeal, but I think they are worth telling. Hopefully this will whet your whistle and you'll check back in order to get the full scoop.